Eton Mess With Basil, Lemon & Mint
From the age of 15 to 20, I worked ad-hoc at weekends for an event’s catering company. Here, I learnt a lot about the importance of provenance, visiting the local butcher to collect fresh organic eggs or Dorset lamb. The company’s speciality was honest, brilliant food – a focus on super fresh, high quality ingredients cooked slowly without fuss. It was wonderful. My favourite part was when we got to enjoy any wedding day feasts we’d prepared – tucked away at about 7pm during speeches eating the dauphinoise and lamb fillet. I can remember it to this day!
I didn’t grow up with this approach so much at home so those five years of catering really stuck with me. Of course I did nothing senior, but I felt so hands-on – helping to prepare (basic) canapés, peeling potatoes, laying tables, polishing cutlery, measuring ingredients – I’d be back and front of house in the kitchen and at events, exposed to a lot, even just watching. I often think back to that job and how, although not at all aware of it at the time, how it's inspired my future work. Whilst by no means am I a chef, I would say I am a good home cook and enjoy it as a creative outlet outside of my work. For me, it's a joyful experience with friends and family. My cooking style is quite similar to my interiors in that I enjoy little twists on classics and nothing overly delicate – I was removed from ballet class and did better at horse riding shall we say. Better still, mine are the sort of dishes where I can ‘talk to guests’– simple but hopefully half decent.
My favourite desserts always have a savoury element to them, often a herb. A variation on a timeless classic, this version of an Eton Mess has a more interesting palate and is a great option for a summer barbecue or dinner party. It’s inspired by an Eton Mess I had at the Star Inn the City in York, which featured lemon balm (this was absolutely delicious but it can be very difficult to get hold of – lemon verbena is another option). Strawberry and basil are a renowned beautiful pairing and I think the lemon and mint adds further depth to the dish, but omit either part if it’s not to your fancy – it’s good enough with either herb. Yoghurt stops it being too sweet and heavy, but again, change this as you wish. This pudding is also great for a picnic served in a small jar, whilst for a dinner party, serve them in a drinking glass, stemmed or otherwise. Here, I have served them in our Julia cut crystal coupes – just an idea but a lovely one, I find.
Serves: 6-8
• Meringue (if making at home, about 6 egg white’ worth – you can make ahead ready to use – or approx 100g shop bought)
• 1 teaspoon of caster sugar
• 500g mixed fresh berries, such as strawberries, raspberries, and blueberries
• Juice & zest of a lemon
• 300ml double cream
• 1 tablespoon icing sugar
• 250g Greek yogurt
• Fresh Mint, a small bunch
• Fresh Basil, a small bunch
• 50g shelled pistachios
Method
Follow your favourite meringue recipe or source high quality pre-made meringue to make life a little easier, then...
1. Chop the strawberries into 0.5-1cm pieces and put in to a bowl with the other berries. Add the caster sugar and the lemon juice and zest. Stir and leave for an hour.
2. Pour the cream into a bowl and add the icing sugar. Whip until soft peaks form, being careful not to over whisk, and then fold in the yoghurt.
3. Finely chop the herbs and mint – about a tablespoon of each. Mix half the chopped basil & mint through the cream and half with the berries.
4. Chop the pistachios roughly and break your meringue in to rough, bite-sized pieces.
5. Add a spoonful of cream and yoghurt mixture to the bottom of your jar or glass. Add a piece or meringue or two. Top with a spoonful of berries and scatter some pistachios. Repeat the layers as you please until you have filled the glass – I like to finish with some cream mixture at the top and then fruit.
6. Sprinkle with the remaining pistachios and some fruit, finish with a complete basil and mint leaf, and enjoy.
